South of Cebu Dive Log: Whaleshark Interaction in Oslob

If you are one of the many following Pinoy Big Brother Unlimited, you should know about Finding Fifi.  Fifi is an remote controlled nemo that has been missing from big brother's house.   While everyone else is curious about Finding Fifi, I was preoccupied finding butanding.

I have a never ending affair with whalesharks. I don't know what's up with these gentle giants, but they just simply amaze me.

A few weeks ago, I spent four days out at sea, in Leyte in search of whaleshark, seen none but instead saw pilot whales, dolphins, seahorses, turtlessss....  (read my Leyte Dive Log).  Sometime last year, we also ventured in Pescador Island, Moalboal, Cebu to see thresher sharks feasting on sardines, some divers in the group were too lucky to also chance upon a whaleshark and caught it on video.  A few years ago, I had an awesome experience snorkling with whalesharks (butanding) in Donsol, Sorsogon.  Took me three attempts to see eight, and I was able to compile an extensive guide to whaleshark interaction in Donsol, Sorsogon.

This time, news broke amongst the diver community that there have been whaleshark sightings in the south of Cebu.   My dive peers went ahead immediately after our Leyte trip, while I was recuperating from an ear infection.  The following weekend, I had to gather my family and some friends to join me on an early morning two and half hour drive down south of the city.

We left at 4:30 in the morning, passed along General Maxilom Avenue and found party people still up and about while we are awake for a new day.  Two hours later we arrived at our jump off point, just in time for the seven o' clock feeding time.  The owner gave us a short briefing.  We were told that these whalesharks are actually resident whalesharks and the local fishermen have been feeding them for the past two years.  (But the fishermen says it's just for the past 6 months.)  These spotters (local fishermen) look for it and pour food (as bait) so it follows them nearer to the shore.

paddle boats

While us divers, swam out from the shore, non-divers were escorted to take the small banka (paddle boats).  These banka are small and could hardly carry one passenger, no safetly facility like life vest is available.  In a separate occasion, my friend's paddle boat sank.

snorkling with whalesharks

It took longer for me to gear up with shore entry than finding myself in the midst of a baby whaleshark.  Just two minutes into the dive, the whaleshark was just there, unmidful of the banka and people around.  On the surface, the fishermen were feeding it with some shrimps and krill - that kept it on the surface for a long time. 

The local fishermen allowed people to touch it.  Kids aged 5, 7 and 8 were able to pet it from the banka without having to get wet.  I dove around it for an hour, without needing to chase it.  The waters are crystal clear, one can actually admire it from a distance.  In previous days, there are have been sightings of up to three whalesharks, but this time, seas were kinda rough and makes it harder for the spotter to look for them.

feeding them shrimps

There is no existing ordinance to protect these gentle giants in the area.  The locals are neither educated how to protect these.  The fishermen themselves allow tourists to touch them.  The locals are definitely not ready to accept the influx of tourists.  I fear that doing this commercially at this time might harm these gentle giants.  Nevertheless, it's a joy to know that they are here.

sideview

HOW TO GET THERE:

• Leave the city by 4am to get there before 7am.

1. Take the public bus going to Oslob at the South Bus Terminal.  Advise the driver to drop you off at the Barangay Hall in Tan-awan. It's about a 3-hour ride from the city.
2. By private car, drive down south of Cebu, passing through South Reclamation Project,  the towns of San Fernando, Carcar, Argao, Alcoy, Boljoon  until you find yourself 125 kms from city center, 2 and half hours later.  There is a marker by the road side.

•  Look for a blue gate with the 'Whale Shark Watching' sign just beside the road.  Since it has become popular, there are quite a number of people on the road inviting you entry to their respective resorts, thus you won't miss the area.

• You can contact Jr at +639235688401  to reserve a boat.

Do interact responsibly.  Keep a safe distance and don't touch these gentle giants.  I hope government officials will seriously take part in the preservation of these gentle giants.  http://www.cebu.gov.ph/article/oslob-bantay-dagat-helps-whale-shark/



from bottom up

Post Trip Accounting:

P100/pax Spotter fee
P100/pax Boat rental
P75/pax Resort fee
  
or

P2000/2dives Diving fee, all inclusive of guide and tank

As there are no decent place we can purchase food in the area, we brought our own food.

P3800 whole Cang's lechon

Note:  new rates as of April 2012:
Snorkeling: Local- P500/ Foreigner- P1000 (inclusive of boat and guide)
Scuba Diving (per dive): Local P600/ Foreigner-P1500 (shore entry, exclusive of dive master, gears and tank)

Leyte Dive Log

It has been a year since I last had a good dive, that was an out of this world encounter with thresher sharks at Moalboal, Cebu. This time, I got an invite from Aquadive Inc, to go on a south safari to Leyte, in anticipation of diving with whalesharks. With the president's short notice to declare a long holiday, I was lucky to still be able to confirm.

Aboard an outrigger boat, fourteen of us left Mactan, Cebu at 630am. The group was composed of a handful of nationalities, there are Filipinos, German, Australian, French, South American, Indian, American... When breakfast was served, cultural differences was obvious. Filipinos feasted on rice, sardines and chorizo; while the rest opted for sandwiches, carrot sticks and chips and dip.

On a good weather day, the sea was practically calm, it turned a little rough in the open seas around Leyte. Five hours later, we reached the seas of Leyte.
Dive 60, 61 Limasawa Island. 69ft 59mins, 79ft 51mins

rich soft and hard corals

Dive 62, 63 Nahpantaw Island 89ft 42mins, 89ft 49mins



up and down current: turtle overload

Dive 64 Pintuyan Island 71ft 52 mins

spotters, the group had to pay P5,000 but no whaleshark in sight :(

Dive 65 Max climax 79ft 63mins

Dive 66 Binit 89ft 54mins

pretty in pink: nudi



spot the pygmy seahorse

 Dive 67 Padre Burgos Pier 27ft 74mins


night dive: stargazer




night dive: seahorse



lovely calm day with our boat

 Kuting Reef

We checked-in in Kuting Reef for three nights.  Kuting Reef is said to be one of the best in the island.  It is hours away from town.  The ambience was good, the room size was generous, but the walls are thin, I can hear our neighbors talk and the strokes of a massage.  Food is average but takes hours to prepare.  Like anywhere in the province, you ought to order a meal in advance.

For three days, I did eight dives, missed out on three dives.  It was a disappointment not to find any whalesharks, instead, saw pilot whales (sorry no evidence), dolphins, stargazer, seahorse, pygmy seahorse, candy crab, frog fish, pygmy frog fish, turtlesssss, tuna, jacks, bump head parrot fish, porcelain crab, squat shrimps, cuttle fish, barracuda, stargazer...  oh it was not so bad afterall.

Diving in Palau & Peleliu with Maml Divers

I was resigned to the fact that I'd stop diving with recurring ear problem.  But I could not pass the invite to dive in Palau.  Our dive buddy E arranged full board and lodging including transportation and dive trips in behalf of the group with Maml Divers, it was a hassle free trip sans the fraudulent transaction with our  airtickets booked with Space Travel Ent, see my story here.

Limited number of airlines fly to Koror, Republic of Palau.  Continental Airlines is the only airline that flies to Koror from Manila, Philippines.  Taking advantage of monopoly, airfare was pegged at $725.  Starting April 2010,  Pacific Flier now flies from Clark to Koror for $399++.

Preparing for a dive trip

This is my first diving trip outside of the Philippines. Since will be staying in Peleliu, an island off the mainland Koror, Palau I made sure all essentials are brought in. I prepared a checklist to make sure I don't leave anything I need.

CLOTHING/OTHERS:

1. Hat
2. Sunglasses
3. Rain jacket
4. Shirt
5. Shorts
6. Underwear
7. Swimsuit
8. Slippers
9. Rash guard and leggings
10. Sunblock
11. Sarong
12. Towel
13. hair clip/tie
14. contact lens and solution
15. toiletries

DIVING GEAR:

1. BCD
2. fins
3. snorkel
4. mask
5. booties
6. reef hook
7. balloon
8. ting-ting
9. Underwater camera, strobe and charger
10. dive computer
11. UW flashlight and extra batteries
12. shampoo or toothpaste for mask clearing
13. dive bag / dry bag

FIRST AID:

1. Betadine for Coral bruises
2. Spirit of Ammonia for Jellyfish stings
3. Bonamine for travel sickness
4. CERC for anti-vertigo
5. Calmoseptine for rashes
6. Mopidic for itch & jellyfish
7. Decongestant
8. Paracetamol
9. Vitamins
10. Imodium for loose bowel movement

Arriving in Palau & Peleliu

After two and a half flight from Manila, we arrived in Koror airport past two in the morning.  Queue at the immigration is moving slow.  We've learned that the locals are generally laid back ergo, lazy.  They get subsidy from the US government and goods are imported from US free of tax.

We were met at the airport by a Filipino driver.  Reality is, there are now more Filipinos in Palau than the locals sweating for a living.  Our dive master, the cook, the receptionist, the sales lady are all Filipinos.  We felt at home, speaking our own language sans spending US dollars.

We checked-in West Plaza Hotel Malaka for the night.  Left in the morning aboard a 225 suzuki twin engine speedboat, from Maml Dive Shop in Koror heading to Peleliu Island.  Peleliu Island is about 15-30 minutes while Koror, Palau is about an hour away from the dive sites.  It was wise to stay in Peleliu Island for the rest of the diving days.  Peleliu Island is quite remote,  there's no mobile phone roaming signal.  Local sim is available though.

Diving in Palau & Peleliu

We had fourteen dives in four diving days. More popular dive sites are as follows:

• Blue Corner - there's a Blue Corner dive daily,  you can't just get enough of it's beauty.  This is Palau's most famous dive site. Blue Corner has every thing a diver could wish for.  Strong currents whip over the top of the plateau bringing with it a plentiful supply of food.  White Tip and Grey Reef Sharks cruise up and down the currents providing great close ups for divers hooked in along the edge of the wall.  Napolean Wrasse, Bumphead Parrotfish, Giant and Blue Fin Trevally is plentiful.  Out in the blue for a safety stop, is usually accompanied by a large school of Black Fin Barracuda and more sharks.

• German Channel - is famous for Manta Ray. Luck wasn't on our side, we had to go back everyday, not until the fourth day did we spot the Manta Ray and it was just in a blink of eye.  It was totally a waste of time in search for that elusive manta ray.  If you're lucky, you'd see 2-4 of them.  Visibility is bad due to planktons and sandy bottom, where a Manta Ray cleaning station is located. What I liked about German Channel is when the speedboat is cruising through it's channel, it looked like a runaway.
• Big Drop Off is much like Blue Corner.  A vertical wall is covered with soft corals and sea fans, divers can expect a pleasant drift dive at some point. As we hooked on the reef, it was interesting to see fish behavior fining against the current.
• Blue Hole - descend down a hole, on top of the shallow reef, into a huge cavern, 28m / 92ft deep. Natural light filters down from the vertical shaft above, providing excellent silhouette shots.  The electric clam is a resident here.
• Peleliu Express is for those experienced divers looking for some adrenalin rush.  Raging currents with sudden down and up current can be experienced here.  Four of our buddies was up for the challenge for an early morning dive here.  According to them, the bottom wall is generally flat which makes it harder since there's nothing to hold on to. Drift dive with the strong current, stumbling and rambling in between until you find shelter behind a cliff, just make sure you won't miss that otherwise you'll be thrown into the blue.
• Peleliu Corner to Cut is close to Peleliu Express.  The cut is a popular hook in point for divers to stop and watch the action. Unhook and the current takes you up and over the plateau.  After 40 minutes fining against the current, I was low on air and eventually had to share air with our DM.  Sharing air is stressful, I had to bite as hard as I could on the octopus (spare regulator) or risk of losing it with the strong current. ascending with barely 200psi left.
Yellow Wall and Oolong Wall are also must visit, a dive buddy says.

Surface Interval

Aside from diving, I look forward to each surface interval.
• Peleliu South Point - we often have our bento picnic lunch here.
• Ngemelis Island - lovely sand bar.
• Dolphins in the wild - it's my first experience with the dolphins in the wild. They appeared in the middle of the sea, playfully chasing our speedboats
• Jellyfish Lake - it's lovely to swim with stingless jellyfish sans the plankton rich lake.
• Shark point - feeding of sharks is no longer allowed, thus they no longer circle around you while snorkeling; but you can see them at the bottom of the sea while snorkeling.
• Milkyway - very fine white sand perfect for exfoliating
• Giant Clam City

Post trip accounting: $1:P45.6
$725 airfare - Manila - Koror - Manila on Continental airlines
$630 dive fee, inclusive of full board and lodging
$50 sanctuary fees
$40 rock island hopping tour
$50 tip
$35 Koror airport tax
$6 ($1.5 1L bottled water at the store, $1.5 500ml at the restaurant)
$40 2 souvenir shirts
P750 Philippine airport tax
P1200 balloon
P300 reef hook

My Whaleshark Interaction at Donsol, Sorsogon

More about Whaleshark Interaction, see my Donsol Travel Guide here.

I've looked forward to summer like never before. With back to back trips from Donsol, Sorsogon, CamSur Wakeboarding Complex and Batanes, I am overwhelmed and fascinated. With tan lines all over, add all the superlatives, now my thoughts are garbled! I can't seem to make a decent post.

While on the plane, our flight was announced delayed for reason that documents have yet to be completed and Legaspi airport is closed and learned that our companions' flight out of Manila was likewise delayed for an hour. What the #@?!! I was anxious, this can't be... nothing should go wrong. It was hell of a pressure to set foot in Donsol and see the whalesharks. I knew I can't go back home not seeing one otherwise I'll be at the receiving end of all possible mockery. For those who knows my tale, the long wait was worth it. If it rains it pours, this time it poured with so much luck!

We were met at the airport by a van driver arranged by the resort. Before heading to Donsol, we dropped by Cagsawa Ruins and Daraga Church. The Mayon Volcano was standing high and mighty across Legaspi City. The Mayon Volcano is best viewed from a distance between 6 to 8 in the morning when skies are clear. With P10 entrance fee, we entered Cagsawa Ruins with the Mayon Volcano on the background. Once in Cagsawa Ruins, you'll be met by local kids, age 10 to 16, they will start by narrating the history of Cagsawa Ruins with visual presentation, then later offers to take your pictures with camera tricks. Good thing I've read an article about it, otherwise I would have shooed them away. I tell you, they are very creative. They even knew how to use my digital camera more than I do. In the end, you won't hesitate to give them a tip.


Afterwhich, we proceeded to an hour land trip to Vitton Resort in Dancalan Beach Resort, registered at the Donsol Tourist Center next door and met by a lovely sunset.

Next day was judgement day, I booked the best Butanding Interaction Officer, Omar. He was the videographer of Donsol (the movie) and guide to celebrities like Korina Sanchez of Balitang K and Dianne Castillejo of Sports Unlimited. He took care of the booking of the boat, skipper, spotter, gear and everything else.

It was non-stop sightings between 730 to 11am, we barely had time in between to reapply sunblock or to grab a sandwich. Just in time we get settled on the boat, the guide shouts "ready!". Who am I to complain? I rushed to put on my fins over and over again, be the first to sit on the edge of the boat and lucky to be dragged by the guide through and through. Twas an amazing encounter with the gentle giants.



I've lost count, but I can safely say we swam with 5 different whalesharks in more than 8 occasions. But it's not in the numbers. The first one was the biggest and the friendliest. It didn't mind our presence, interaction lasted a good 30 minutes... it could have been longer but we could not keep up, after having our portraits alongside it (so I have proof to brag). I was literally panting the first time when fear sinks in, then excitement sets in and eventually breath rans out. I probably gulped a liter of water with planktons (eew!) and heard someone screamed underwater. With that first encounter, we were already very much content but they just kept coming and coming, even on our way back to shore.

The rest of the day was a lazy afternoon, spent an hour of thanksgiving mass in Donsol, Church in their native dialect and nourished our hungry pangs at Amor Farm Resort.


It was a totally awesome experience, I don't mind going back someday.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! off we went to Camsur Watersports Complex.

Diving in Dumaguete

We went on a 4-hour landtrip then on a roll on roll off (RORO) at Santander, the Southern tip of Cebu, for a diving trip to Dumaguete. I was excited to use my newly purchased Aladin Prime dive computer.

Day 1, dive 1 & 2: Dive Dauin [74ft, 66mins] and Masaplod [57ft, 66mins]

L-R: leaffish, mating crabs, frogfish, clownfish, blue-spotted stingray, pufferfish, sea turtle, pipefish, scorpionfish

Diving in Cebu: Moalboal Sardine Run and Thresher Shark

It has been three years since my first and last dive in Moalboal.  It wasn't such a pleasant experience, we didn't see much at that time and it turned out to be 3 of my dive buddies' last dive.

A few weeks ago, it was the talk of the town. There have been consistent sightings of thresher sharks, whale shark and overwhelming school of sardines. Since then there was a renewed interest to visit the place by many including me.

Getting there:

Dumaguete dive log

Last weekend, we went on a 4-hour landtrip-barge via the Southern tip of Cebu, Santander for a diving trip to Dumaguete. I was excited to use my newly purchased Aladin Prime dive computer.

Day 1, dive 1 & 2: Dive Dauin [74ft, 66mins] and Masaplod [57ft, 66mins]

Unlike the dive spots I've been to, Dauin is primarily composed of brown sandy bottom. One has to have the spotter's eye to see those small creatures and critters found at the bottom. Masaplod on the other hand, is a small fish sanctuary, where corals grew in the middle of this sandy bottom. There we found this 1 meter-sea turtle, that didn't mind our presence.

L-R: leaffish, mating crabs, frogfish, clownfish, blue-spotted stingray, pufferfish, sea turtle, pipefish, scorpionfish

Day 2, dive 3, 4 & 5: Dive Apo Island [86ft, 71mins; 80ft 60mins] and Ducomi [76ft, 67mins]

Coconut Groove in Apo Island was the experience to beat. The waves on the surface was fierce, thus, we have to descend fast. Luckily, the decongestant worked well this time, I made it down fast. At the bottom, the current was even stronger swishing here and there, thus, we have to hold on to our dear life line (a rope). We almost aborted the dive when there was nothing to hold on to. Thanks to the school of huge mating jacks that appeared below us, we were enticed to descend again. Thanks too to our Dive Masters, who made us feel safe amidst the strong current. The reefs of Apo Island is a vast area filled with corals and schools of fish.

With slightly strong currents and ships docking on the surface, we need our dive light in Ducomi Pier. The pillars of this pier are filled with corals and different interesting creatures. You can actually hear the fishes flap their fins! Lionfishes dominate the area as well.

L-R: commensal shrimp, nudi, us, jacks, black seahorse, me with dive light, lionfish, octopus, eel

Day 3, dive 6: Bahura Resort House Reef [92ft, 63mins]

I skipped the morning dive in Ducomi as I opted to take a good rest and lounge around the resort with a hearty buffet breakfast.

As rain started to pour, waves started to pick-up, we were about to start our dive at the house reef. This reef is deep and with limited visibility, there goes my ears again, it took me some 10 minutes to reach the bottom (entry down 80 feet). As I slowly worked my way down, I got stung around my philtrum (for the 2nd time)! 'Twas worth it though. My first to see spiny lobster, mantis shrimp, boxer shrimps, jaw fish... i can go on and on :D

L-R: jawfish, boxer shrimps, mantis shrimp, spiny lobster, ghost shrimp, bahura resort


Can't wait to dive in Philippine's prime dive spot -Tubbataha, Palawan next year.